“花帽巫婆”安娜 皮亚姬--怪诞之美

来源:互联网新闻 时间:2020-05-02 12:26

Anna Piaggi — The Beauty of Eccentricity

The legendary Italian fashion journalist and style icon Anna Piaggi passed away in her home in Milan, 81 years old.

Fashion Icon Anna Piaggi

时尚偶像安娜 皮亚姬

Anna Piaggi was born in Milan in 1931. She worked as a translator for an Italian publishing company Mondadori(蒙达多利出版集团), then wrote for fashion magazines such as the Italian edition of Vogue(《时尚》)and, in the 1980s, the avant-garde(先锋的)magazine Vanity(《名利场》). She was known especially for double-page spreads(两页对开)in the Italian Vogue, where her artistic flair(鉴赏力)was given free expression in a montage(蒙太奇,电影的基本结构手段和叙事方式)of images and text.

From her days cavorting(活跃)around Paris in the 70s’ with Karl Lagerfeld, Piaggi was a tour de force(奇葩)in the fashion world, known for her eccentric ensembles(全套服装), tilted(歪戴的)hats, and short blue hair. She was one of the group of personalities in the fashion media who became famous for their outrageous(令人叹为观止的)style.

Piaggi was a front row fixture during fashion weeks and a muse to many, including Lagerfeld, who sketched her numerous times, and milliner(女帽制造商)Stephen Jones, who often topped her head with one of his wild hats.

Tip:安娜 皮亚姬最早的身份是意大利版《时尚》专栏作家,她在每期两页的专栏中发表犀利精辟的独到观点,多年来已成为时尚人士必读的流行圣经。造型独特的帽子和头饰、额前一缕五颜六色的卷发、硬币大小的橘色腮红、夸张的服饰搭配、强烈的色彩撞击——这位时尚圈最有影响力的评论家安娜 皮亚姬因特立独行的着装风格而让人印象深刻。安娜 皮亚姬在时尚圈的从业经历已超过60年,在她70多岁的时候,她依然活跃在秀场上,用她充满活力的装扮——包括时髦的帽子和色彩缤纷的发色,表达自己对时尚的态度。

The Influence in Fashion Industry

安娜 皮亚姬的时尚影响力

In 2006 she was the subject of a fashion exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London(伦敦维多利亚-阿尔伯特美术馆). Titled “Anna Piaggi Fashion-ology(安娜 皮亚姬的时尚学问),” the show featured her clothing collection. Piaggi had a large clothes collection, including 2,865 dresses and 265 pairs of shoes, according to the exhibition. She dressed in an exuberant(生气勃勃的)and unique way, never appearing in the same outfit more than once in public.

Her associates in the fashion world included the fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld (from the 1970s), who has often sketched her, and Manolo Blahnik(马诺洛 布拉赫尼克,著名女鞋设计师), who is the designer of many of her shoes. She was also an admirer of British clothes designer Vivienne Westwood(薇薇安 韦斯特伍德,著名时装设计师,人称“西太后”)and her hats.

She lived in New York and visited London and Italy periodically since the 1950s. Piaggi appeared in the New York Times fashion and social photographer Bill Cunningham’s(比尔 坎宁安,时尚街拍大师)documentary(纪录片)Bill Cunningham New York(《街拍皇帝》,记录了比尔 坎宁安的街拍历程).

Tip:被大家视为“时装宝库”的安娜 皮亚姬还是“时装史上最权威的收藏家”,她拥有将近3000件礼服、200多双鞋子……2006年,应伦敦著名的维多利亚-阿尔伯特博物馆之邀,安娜公开展出她多年的时装珍藏、论文、时装绘图、做摄影师时拍的照片、时装以及安娜 皮亚姬曾用来写稿的古老打字机,完整地述说了安娜多姿多彩的时尚生涯。安娜 皮亚姬也是众多时尚设计师的缪斯之一,“老佛爷”卡尔 拉格斐、鞋履设计师马诺洛 布拉赫尼克、帽子设计大师斯黛芬 琼斯都曾从她的搭配风格中得到设计灵感。(吕进/选编)

生词表

icon n 圣像,偶像

vogue n 时尚,流行

vanity n 虚荣心,浮华

montage n 蒙太奇(电影中不同镜头的快速连接)

eccentric n 行为古怪的人

tilt v (使)倾斜

outrageous a 蛮横的,残暴的

muse v 沉思

Victoria n 英国的女皇

exuberant a 精力充沛的

designer n 设计者

本文系新华网国际频道独家刊载《英语沙龙》文章,转载请注明出处。

调查显示逾1/4德国食品加工企业卫生日本大学讲师称日本年轻男女接吻价值约印度一副领事在美国被捕 涉嫌为保姆骗好莱坞步入颁奖季 夺奖热门渐显现日本财务省欲将公务员宿舍房租上涨1.日媒调查:过半数日本民众赞成行使集体两名中国游客在尼泊尔身亡 死因尚不明外交部:被菲移民局抓扣中国公民已有5安倍会见阿基诺 日菲拟合作应对中国空前冰岛最大银行4名高管因参与金融诈骗英国名媛在家中自拍后照片惊现“鬼手”英国国家医疗体系陷信任危机 每周严重调查称韩国超五成女性对圣诞节约会感到美妇使用鼻塞剂后银中毒 皮肤变色似“法国一咖啡馆奖励良好礼仪顾客超低价咖苏富比将向柬埔寨归还千年雕塑 价值超墨西哥通过里程碑式油价改革方案引发争法外长于中非探望法国军队 传递信任信俄一波音737客机因左前舱门未关严而开城工业园区韩朝共同委员会将再次举行世界主要城市12月14日天气预报工商总局拒向烹饪协会道歉 称曝光霸王外交部:被菲移民局抓扣中国公民已有5惊叹!盘点2013年最受喜爱的科学照安倍在右翼道路上疾走日本福利院员工对10名入住者动手 致日本财务省欲将公务员宿舍房租上涨1.外交部:中方正在对东海防空识别区实施洛杉矶市政府规定官员收礼限额不得超过日本大学讲师称日本年轻男女接吻价值约美国会两党就预算达成一致 避免政府再“世纪葬礼”送别曼德拉泰国警察撤障 反政府示威者进入总理府潘基文强烈谴责俄驻叙使馆遭炮击河南拟出台新政:老板长年不加薪将被罚伦敦三名女子被两名67岁老人奴役30陆克文辞职被批走得太晚 回应称忙着庆中国在华沙气候大会上表示:发达国家应德媒称纳粹时期搜刮千余件名画恐难归原河北保定“边笑边数回扣”医生受处理 猪木在朝开设事务所 称愿为日朝关系做菲人质事件在港谈判分歧收窄 同意继续美国多名政客支持监听行为 称总统不必俄外长:俄美涉叙计划表明双方有能力应澳昆州监狱拟推荧光粉囚服:让摩托党“专家提议考核进京 媒体称有挑逗公众情广东省委举办习仲勋与广东改革开放座谈浙江舟山海岛游因“菲特”上演“冰火两奥巴马缺席APEC 被调侃“没钱付油江苏镇江市18家KTV因价格行为不规